Finding the Best RV Generator for Your Rig (And Budget!)

Powering Your Adventure: Finding the Best RV Generator for Your Rig (And Budget!)
The open road calls, promising endless vistas and the freedom to roam. For many RVers, this includes embracing the solitude of boondocking or dry camping, far from the manicured campgrounds with their convenient power hookups. But even off the grid, you still need power – for lights, to charge your devices, run the microwave, keep the fridge cold, or even power that essential air conditioner on a hot day. This is where the humble, yet mighty, RV generator comes in.
Choosing the right generator, however, isn’t a one-size-fits-all decision. It’s a critical investment that needs to match your RV’s specific power hungry appliances, your preferred camping style, and, of course, your budget. Dive in with us as we break down the key factors to help you find the perfect power partner for your adventures.
Why Do You Need an RV Generator?
Simply put, an RV generator provides electricity when you’re not plugged into shore power. While your RV’s batteries can power some basic functions like lights and water pump for a limited time, they can’t handle high-draw appliances like air conditioners, microwaves, hair dryers, or even quickly recharge themselves without a charging source (like the generator, solar, or shore power). A generator essentially lets you bring the comforts of home with you, even to the most remote locations.
Types of RV Generators
RV generators generally fall into two main categories:
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Portable Generators: These are standalone units that you carry with you and place outside the RV when in use.
- Pros: Often more affordable, can be used for other purposes (home backup, job sites), easy to replace or upgrade.
- Cons: Require manual setup and connection, take up storage space, must be secured against theft, require external fueling, can be noisier (though inverter portables are quiet).
- Built-in (Onboard) Generators: These are permanently installed within your RV’s structure, often in a dedicated compartment.
- Pros: Convenience (start with a switch from inside), quiet operation (due to insulation and design), fueled directly from the RV’s main fuel tank (usually).
- Cons: More expensive upfront, fixed power output (hard to upgrade), require professional installation and maintenance access, add permanent weight to the RV.
Within these types, the most significant distinction today is between Conventional and Inverter technology.
- Conventional Generators: Run at a constant engine speed (typically 3600 RPM) to produce a fixed frequency (60 Hz) AC power.
- Pros: Can be robust and reliable for basic needs.
- Cons: Often very loud, power output might not be as "clean" (stable voltage/frequency), less fuel-efficient as they run at high speed regardless of load.
- Inverter Generators: Use advanced electronic technology to produce AC power. They generate high-frequency AC, convert it to DC, and then "invert" it back to clean, stable AC power at the desired voltage and frequency. They also feature variable engine speed, slowing down when less power is needed.
- Pros: Significantly quieter, produce "clean" power (safe for sensitive electronics like laptops and medical equipment), much more fuel-efficient.
- Cons: More expensive upfront, generally less raw power output than conventional units of similar size (though parallel capability helps).
For most RVers, especially those with modern electronics or who value peace and quiet (and happy neighbors!), an inverter generator (either portable or built-in) is the preferred choice, despite the higher cost.
Key Factors When Choosing Your Generator
Now that you know the basic types, let’s break down the crucial elements to consider:
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Power Needs (Wattage): This is the MOST important factor. What appliances do you plan to run simultaneously? Every electrical device has a power requirement measured in watts.
- Running Watts: The power needed to keep an appliance running.
- Starting Watts (Surge Watts): Many motor-driven appliances (like air conditioners, refrigerators, microwaves, pumps) require a much higher surge of power for a few seconds when they first start up.
- How to Calculate: List every appliance you might want to run at the same time. Find their running watts (usually on a label). Sum all the running watts. Then, identify the appliance with the highest starting wattage among those you plan to run simultaneously. Add that single highest starting wattage to the total running wattage of all the other appliances. This gives you a good estimate of the maximum wattage your generator needs to handle the initial surge.
- Example: You want to run the AC (2000 running / 4000 starting), Microwave (1200 running / 1800 starting), and Lights (300 running / 300 starting).
- Scenario 1: AC is already running (2000W), you turn on the microwave (1200 running, 1800 starting). You need enough power for the AC (2000) + Microwave starting (1800) + Lights running (300) = 4100W.
- Scenario 2: Microwave is running (1200W), you turn on the AC (2000 running, 4000 starting). You need enough power for the Microwave (1200) + AC starting (4000) + Lights running (300) = 5500W.
- In this scenario, you need a generator that can handle peaks of at least 5500 watts and sustain running loads around 3500 watts (2000 AC + 1200 Microwave + 300 Lights). This is a simplified example, but it shows why starting watts are critical. Always check the specific wattage labels on your appliances! When in doubt, overestimate slightly.
- Example: You want to run the AC (2000 running / 4000 starting), Microwave (1200 running / 1800 starting), and Lights (300 running / 300 starting).
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Noise Level: Measured in decibels (dB). RV generators can be noisy, which impacts your peace, your neighbors’ peace (especially in campgrounds with rules), and the overall camping experience. Conventional generators are often in the 70-80+ dB range (like a loud vacuum cleaner or busy street), while inverter generators are typically 50-60 dB (closer to normal conversation volume). Lower dB is better!
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Fuel Type:
- Gasoline: Most common, widely available. Requires careful storage due to flammability and fuel degradation over time.
- Propane (LPG): Clean burning, easy to store in existing RV tanks, longer shelf life than gas. Less energy-dense than gasoline, so consumes more fuel per kWh produced. Performance can dip in very cold weather.
- Diesel: Typically only for diesel pusher RVs, drawing from the main fuel tank. More fuel-efficient and durable for high-hour use.
- Dual Fuel: Offer the flexibility to run on either gasoline or propane. A popular choice for RVers.
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Budget: Generators range from a few hundred dollars for small portables to several thousand for large built-in or high-end inverter models. Your budget will heavily influence the wattage, features, and technology (inverter vs. conventional) you can afford.
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Weight and Portability (for Portable Units): Consider how heavy the unit is and if you can comfortably lift and move it. Does it have wheels or a handle? Where will you store it during travel?
- Features:
- Electric Start: Much easier than pull-starting, especially for larger units.
- Parallel Capability: Allows you to link two smaller inverter generators together to double the power output when needed. Great flexibility!
- Fuel Gauge: Helps you monitor runtime.
- Low Oil Shutoff: Protects the engine from damage.
- Hour Meter: Useful for tracking maintenance intervals.
- Multiple Outlets: Various types (120V, 30A RV plug, USB ports).
Balancing Your Needs and Budget
This is often the trickiest part. Ideally, you’d get a super-quiet, high-wattage, dual-fuel inverter generator with electric start. But that comes with a price tag. Here’s how to find the sweet spot:
- Prioritize Appliances: Can you live without running the AC and the microwave at the exact same moment? If so, you might get away with a slightly smaller, more affordable generator.
- Identify Minimum Wattage: Calculate your absolute minimum power needs (lights, charging, water pump, perhaps the fridge on electric). This sets a floor.
- Consider Inverter First: If your budget allows, the benefits of quiet operation and clean power from an inverter generator are usually worth the extra cost for RV use.
- Explore Dual Fuel: The versatility of dual fuel can sometimes justify a slightly higher price.
- Look for Sales and Refurbished Units: Keep an eye out for deals, but be cautious with used generators unless you know their history.
- Factor in Fuel Costs: While hard to calculate precisely upfront, remember that fuel efficiency varies. An inverter generator’s better efficiency can save you money over time, slightly offsetting its higher purchase price.
Caring for Your Generator
Once you have your generator, proper maintenance is key to longevity and reliability. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for oil changes, air filter cleaning, and spark plug replacement. Use fuel stabilizer if storing gasoline for extended periods. Always operate generators in a well-ventilated area, far from windows and doors, to prevent dangerous carbon monoxide buildup.
Conclusion
Finding the best RV generator for your rig and budget requires careful consideration of your power needs, preferred features, and how you plan to use it. By understanding the types of generators available, calculating your required wattage accurately, and balancing essential features against cost, you can make an informed decision. A well-chosen generator is more than just a piece of equipment; it’s your key to unlocking unlimited adventure, bringing comfort and convenience wherever the road takes you. Power up wisely and enjoy the freedom!
RV Generator FAQs
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Q1: What’s the main difference between an inverter and a conventional generator for RVs?
- A1: Inverter generators are significantly quieter, more fuel-efficient, and produce "cleaner" power that’s safe for sensitive electronics like laptops and cell phones. Conventional generators are often louder and less efficient but can sometimes offer more raw power for a lower price. For most RVers today, an inverter is preferred.
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Q2: How do I figure out what size generator (wattage) I need?
- A2: Make a list of all the appliances you might run simultaneously. Find their running wattage. Sum the running wattage. Then, find the appliance with the highest starting wattage among that list and add that single highest starting wattage to the total running wattage of all the other appliances. This gives you a peak wattage estimate. Always check appliance labels; online estimates are just rough guides.
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Q3: Can a generator run my RV’s air conditioner?
- A3: Yes, but RV air conditioners require a significant amount of wattage, especially for starting up (surge wattage). You’ll typically need at least a 3000-watt generator (or larger, depending on the AC size) to reliably start and run an RV air conditioner. Check your specific AC unit’s power requirements.
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Q4: Are RV generators really noisy?
- A4: Conventional generators can be quite noisy (70-80+ dB). Inverter generators are much quieter, typically operating in the 50-60 dB range, which is much more suitable for campgrounds and minimizes disturbance.
- Q5: Should I get a gasoline, propane, or dual-fuel generator?
- A5: Gasoline is widely available but requires careful storage. Propane is cleaner burning, easier to store (often using the RV’s tanks), and has a longer shelf life, though it’s less fuel-efficient than gas. Dual-fuel offers the flexibility of using whichever fuel is most convenient at the time. Diesel is usually only for diesel pusher RVs. Choose based on availability, convenience, and efficiency needs.