Portable vs. Built-In: Which RV Generator is Right for Your RV Life?

Portable vs. Built-In: Which RV Generator is Right for Your RV Life?

The open road calls, beckoning RVers to explore hidden gems far from the confines of powered campgrounds. While the freedom of boondocking or dry camping is a major draw, it presents a fundamental question: how will you keep the lights on, the fridge cold, and the AC running when there’s no shore power hookup?

Enter the RV generator, the unsung hero of off-grid living. For many, it’s an essential piece of equipment that transforms remote locations into comfortable getaways. But when it comes to choosing a generator, RVers face a primary decision: go with a portable unit or opt for a built-in model?

Both types serve the same basic purpose – generating electricity – but they differ significantly in cost, convenience, power output, and maintenance. Understanding these differences is key to selecting the generator that best fits your RV lifestyle, budget, and power needs.

Let’s break down the pros and cons of each.

Built-In RV Generators: The Integrated Powerhouse

Built-in generators, also known as onboard generators, are permanently installed within the RV’s chassis, often in a dedicated bay. They are typically wired directly into the RV’s electrical system and fuel supply. These are common in larger Class A and Class C motorhomes, and sometimes in high-end fifth wheels.

• Pros:

  • Ultimate Convenience: This is arguably the biggest advantage. Built-in generators can often be started with the push of a button from inside the RV, sometimes even remotely. There’s no need to haul it out, connect cables, or refuel it with separate cans frequently, as they tap directly into the RV’s main fuel tank (gas, diesel, or propane).
  • Higher Power Output: Built-in units are generally designed to handle the significant power demands of larger RVs, capable of running multiple appliances, including one or even two air conditioners, the microwave, and other high-draw items simultaneously. Power outputs commonly range from 3,000 watts up to 12,000 watts or more.
  • Quieter Operation (Often): While no generator is silent, built-in models are often specifically designed and installed with noise reduction in mind. They may have better insulation in their compartment or be liquid-cooled (especially larger diesel units) for quieter operation compared to many portable options.
  • Seamless Integration: Being hardwired into the RV means they power all your RV’s outlets and appliances directly through the main electrical panel, just like shore power. There are no external cords to manage (beyond potentially a transfer switch choosing between generator/shore power).
  • Security: Because they are fixed in place, they are not susceptible to theft like a portable unit can be.
  • Reliability: High-quality built-in generators (like those made by Onan/Cummins) are known for their robust construction and longevity when properly maintained.

• Cons:

  • High Initial Cost: Built-in generators are significantly more expensive than portable units, both for the unit itself and the factory installation. This is a major factor if you’re adding one to an RV that didn’t come with one.
  • Complex Installation & Maintenance: Installation is a major undertaking that requires expertise and integration with the RV’s fuel, exhaust, and electrical systems. Maintenance can also be more complex and often requires a trip to an RV service center, potentially incurring higher labor costs.
  • Uses RV’s Fuel: While convenient, running the generator draws directly from your main fuel tank. Extended generator use can significantly reduce your driving range or require you to refuel sooner.
  • Fixed Location: The generator is where it is. You can’t move it to reduce noise for neighbors (though good practice dictates aiming the exhaust away) or use it for tasks outside the RV like powering tools away from the rig.
  • Weight and Space: Built-in generators are heavy and occupy a dedicated storage bay or compartment, adding significant weight to the RV and reducing potential storage space.

Portable RV Generators: The Flexible Companion

Portable generators are standalone units that can be moved and placed outside the RV. For RV use, the focus is increasingly on inverter generators, which produce clean, stable power suitable for sensitive electronics and are generally much quieter and more fuel-efficient than traditional "contractor" generators.

• Pros:

  • Lower Initial Cost: Portable inverter generators, while more expensive than traditional portable generators, are generally much more affordable upfront than a built-in unit.
  • Flexibility and Portability: The name says it all. You can move the generator away from your campsite to reduce noise (within reason and respecting others), use it to power items away from the RV (like tools or a separate camping area), and easily lend it to a friend or use it at home during a power outage.
  • Easier Maintenance Access: Oil changes, filter cleaning, and spark plug replacement are typically more accessible and often easier for the DIY RVer on a portable unit.
  • Separate Fuel Source: Portable generators run on their own fuel tank (usually gasoline or propane). This means you don’t drain your RV’s main fuel supply while generating power, leaving more fuel for driving.
  • Scalability: Many portable inverter generators are "parallel capable," meaning you can link two smaller units together to double the power output when needed, offering flexibility for varying power demands.
  • Upgrade/Replacement: If your power needs change or the generator breaks down, it’s relatively easy to sell, upgrade, or replace a portable unit compared to a built-in one.

• Cons:

  • Less Convenience: Starting a portable generator typically involves going outside, taking it out of storage, setting it up, adding fuel, starting it manually (pull cord or electric start), and connecting a power cord to the RV’s shore power inlet. It requires setup and takedown each time.
  • Fuel Storage: You need to carry separate fuel cans (gas or propane tanks), which take up storage space and must be stored safely due to flammability.
  • Noise (Variable): While modern inverter generators are much quieter than older types, they can still be noticeable, especially smaller units working hard. Campground noise restrictions (measured in decibels at a certain distance) are crucial to consider.
  • Security Risk: Portable generators are attractive targets for theft and require securing, often with cables and locks, when left unattended.
  • Power Output Varies: While some larger portable units exist, the most common, quiet inverter models are in the 2,000-3,500 watt range. Running multiple high-draw appliances or two ACs might require larger units or paralleling two smaller ones.
  • Takes Up Storage Space: When not in use, the generator and its fuel cans must be stored in the RV’s basement, truck bed, or a carrier, consuming valuable storage space.

Key Factors to Consider When Making Your Choice:

1. Your RV Life Style & Frequency of Use: Do you primarily stay at campgrounds with hookups and only occasionally boondock for a night or two? A portable might suffice. Do you spend weeks or months off-grid where reliable, easy power is essential daily? A built-in starts looking very attractive.
2. Power Needs: What do you need to run? Just charge batteries and run lights/fan? A small portable (2000W) might work. Need to run the AC in hot weather? You’ll likely need a 3000W+ portable or a larger built-in. Need two ACs and a microwave simultaneously? You’re likely looking at a 5000W+ built-in or paralleled portables. Calculate your wattage needs carefully.
3. Budget: What can you realistically spend? Built-ins represent a significant upfront investment. Portables offer a range of price points.
4. Convenience vs. Cost/Flexibility: How much do you value the ease of just flipping a switch versus the lower cost and versatility of a portable unit that requires manual setup?
5. Noise Regulations: Check the noise limits at places you plan to camp (many National Parks and some campgrounds have strict decibel limits, often 60 dBA at 50 feet). Compare the noise ratings of specific generator models.
6. Fuel Type: Does your RV run on gasoline, diesel, or propane? Matching a built-in to your RV’s fuel is convenient. Portables are typically gasoline or propane. Consider fuel availability and storage challenges.
7. Storage Space & Weight Capacity: Do you have a suitable bay for a built-in? Do you have basement or truck bed space for a portable and its fuel? Can your RV handle the added weight?
8. Maintenance Capability: Are you comfortable with basic generator maintenance on a portable unit, or would you prefer to rely on professional service for a built-in?

Making the Decision:

• A Built-In Generator Might Be Right For You If:

  • You primarily travel in a Class A or larger Class C motorhome.
  • You spend a significant amount of time boondocking or dry camping.
  • You need to reliably run high-draw appliances like air conditioners frequently.
  • You prioritize convenience and ease of use above all else.
  • Budget is not the primary limiting factor.
  • Your RV has the necessary infrastructure or capability for installation.

• A Portable Generator Might Be Right For You If:

  • You travel in a smaller RV (Class B, smaller Class C, travel trailer, truck camper).
  • You mostly stay in campgrounds with hookups and only occasionally boondock.
  • Budget is a major consideration.
  • You value flexibility and the ability to use the generator for other purposes.
  • You are comfortable with manual setup and fueling.
  • You have adequate, safe storage space for the unit and fuel.
  • You are conscious of campground noise regulations and want the option to place the generator strategically.

Conclusion

There’s no universal "better" option when it comes to RV generators. The choice between portable and built-in boils down to a careful evaluation of your personal RVing habits, power requirements, financial resources, and tolerance for convenience versus manual effort.

A built-in generator offers unparalleled convenience and integrated power for frequent, high-demand off-grid use, but comes at a premium cost and reduced flexibility. A portable inverter generator provides a more affordable, flexible, and easily maintainable power source for occasional or less demanding boondocking, though it requires manual effort and secure storage.

Take the time to assess your needs, weigh the pros and cons within the context of your RV life, and choose the generator that will reliably power your adventures wherever the road takes you.

RV Generator FAQs

• What size generator do I need for my RV?
  You need to calculate your peak and continuous wattage needs. List all the appliances you might want to run simultaneously (AC, microwave, coffee maker, lights, electronics). Find their wattage (it’s usually on a label or in the manual). Add up the wattage for your peak load (e.g., AC startup + microwave) and continuous load (e.g., AC running + fridge + lights). Generators are rated in watts (W) and killowatts (kW). A 2000W generator might run lights, fan, and charge batteries. A 3000-4000W is often needed for one AC. A 5000W+ is needed for two ACs or heavier loads. Always leave some headroom.
• Can I run my RV’s air conditioner with a portable generator?
  Yes, absolutely, but it depends on the size of the generator and your AC unit. A typical 13,500 BTU RV AC requires about 1,500-2,000 running watts and a surge (startup) wattage often 2-3 times higher. A quality inverter generator rated at 3,000 watts or more is usually sufficient for one AC. Some smaller generators (2,000-2,200W) might run certain ACs, especially with a soft start capacitor installed on the AC.
• What’s the difference between a traditional generator and an inverter generator?
  Traditional generators produce "dirty" power with voltage fluctuations, fine for tools but potentially harmful to sensitive electronics like laptops and TVs. Inverter generators produce "clean," stable AC power that mimics shore power, making them ideal for RV use where you have many electronics. Inverters are also typically much quieter and more fuel-efficient, especially at lower loads.
• Are generators allowed in all campgrounds?
  No. Many campgrounds (especially national/state parks and some private campgrounds) have specific hours when generators can be run and often have noise limits (e.g., below 60 dBA at 50 feet). Always check the rules of where you plan to camp. Traditional construction-style generators are often too loud for many campgrounds.
• How do I connect a portable generator to my RV?
  You typically use a standard RV shore power cord (30-amp or 50-amp, depending on your RV and generator). You may need an adapter if the generator outlet doesn’t match your cord’s plug (e.g., a 30A plug into a 20A outlet using an adapter, though this limits the power). Plug the cord into the generator outlet and into your RV’s shore power inlet.
• How often do I need to maintain my generator?
  Consult your generator’s manual for specific maintenance schedules. Common tasks include checking and changing the oil (very important, often frequently for the first few hours), cleaning or replacing air filters, checking/replacing spark plugs, and inspecting fuel lines. Proper storage and running the generator periodically (even when not boondocking) are also crucial for longevity.
• Gas, diesel, or propane generator?

  • Gasoline: Most common for portables, widely available. Less efficient than diesel, harder to store long-term than propane.
  • Diesel: Standard for built-in generators in diesel pusher motorhomes. Very fuel-efficient, reliable, and powerful. Fuel is the same as the RV.
  • Propane: Used in some built-ins and many portable dual-fuel generators. Easy storage (propane tanks don’t "go bad"), cleaner burning than gas/diesel. Less energy-dense than gasoline, so consumes propane faster.