RV Generator Buying Guide: What You Need to Know Before You Buy

RV Generator Buying Guide: What You Need to Know Before You Buy

The open road calls. You’ve got your RV packed, the route planned, and a sense of adventure in your heart. But what about power? While campgrounds offer hookups, the true freedom of RVing often involves venturing off the beaten path – a practice known as boondocking or dry camping. This is where an RV generator becomes not just a convenience, but a necessity.

A generator is your portable power plant, providing electricity when you’re miles away from the nearest outlet. It keeps your lights on, your fridge cold, your devices charged, and maybe even runs your air conditioner on a hot day. But with various types, sizes, and features available, choosing the right one can feel overwhelming. This guide will walk you through the essential considerations to help you make an informed decision before you buy.

Why Do You Need an RV Generator?

While some RVers primarily stay at campgrounds with electric hookups, a generator opens up a world of possibilities:

1. Boondocking/Dry Camping: This is the primary reason. Camping without hookups requires a source of power for basic amenities.
2. Backup Power: Even in campgrounds, unexpected power outages can happen. A generator ensures you’re not left in the dark.
3. Supplementing Campground Power: Some campgrounds have limited amperage hookups. A generator can provide extra power for running high-draw appliances simultaneously.
4. Convenience on the Road: Need to make a quick coffee stop off-grid? Run a microwave for lunch at a rest stop? A generator provides power wherever you are.

Types of RV Generators

RV generators generally fall into two main categories based on how they are installed, and two based on their technology:

1. By Installation:

• Portable Generators: These are standalone units you carry with you.

  • Pros: More affordable, versatile (can be used outside the RV for other needs), easy to service or replace, don’t add permanent weight to the RV’s structure.
  • Cons: Need to be manually set up and stored, can be heavy, require external fuel tanks (usually), security risk (can be stolen), need to be placed a safe distance from the RV due to fumes and noise.

• Built-in (Onan-style) Generators: These are permanently installed within the RV’s chassis, often with a dedicated fuel line from the RV’s main tank and control panels inside.

  • Pros: Extremely convenient (start with a button inside), quiet operation (due to being enclosed and often liquid-cooled), dedicated fuel source, secure, don’t take up exterior storage space.
  • Cons: Very expensive to purchase and install, maintenance requires specialized knowledge, adds permanent weight, tied to the RV fuel source, less flexible for use outside the RV.

2. By Technology:

• Conventional Generators: These use an alternator connected directly to the engine, spinning at a constant speed to produce power.

  • Pros: Generally less expensive for the wattage output.
  • Cons: Produce "dirty" power (less stable sine wave) which can be harmful to sensitive electronics (laptops, TVs, etc.), are typically louder and less fuel-efficient as the engine always runs at high RPM regardless of load.

• Inverter Generators: These use advanced electronic circuitry to produce AC power, convert it to DC, and then "invert" it back to clean, stable AC power (a pure sine wave). The engine speed adjusts to the power demand.

  • Pros: Produce clean power safe for all electronics, significantly quieter operation, much more fuel-efficient (engine idles when demand is low), often lighter and more compact for their output.
  • Cons: More expensive than conventional generators of comparable wattage.

For most modern RVers, especially those with sensitive electronics, an inverter generator (either portable or built-in) is the preferred choice due to its quiet operation and clean power.

Determining Your Power Needs (Wattage)

This is arguably the most critical step. Buying a generator too small means you can’t run everything you need; too large means you’ve overspent and are carrying unnecessary weight. Generators are rated in watts. You’ll see two ratings:

• Running Watts (or Rated Watts): The continuous power the generator can supply.
• Starting Watts (or Surge Watts): The extra burst of power needed for a few seconds to start appliances with electric motors (like air conditioners, refrigerators, microwaves, pumps).

How to Estimate Your Needs:

1. List Your Appliances: Make a list of everything you might want to run simultaneously while boondocking (lights, fridge, fan, microwave, AC, TV, coffee maker, hair dryer, phone chargers, etc.).
2. Find Appliance Wattage: Look for a label on each appliance listing its wattage. If it only lists amps, multiply amps by volts (120V in North America) to get watts (Amps x Volts = Watts). Find both running and starting watts if possible. Common high-wattage items are microwaves (1000-1500+ running), air conditioners (1500-2500 running, 3000-4000+ starting), hair dryers (1000-1800+ running), coffee makers (600-1500+ running).
3. Calculate Total Running Watts: Add up the running watts of all appliances you want to run at the same time.
4. Identify Peak Starting Watts: Determine which single appliance has the highest starting wattage requirement. Air conditioners usually have the highest surge.
5. Determine Generator Needs:

   • Your generator’s Running Wattage should comfortably exceed the total running watts calculated in step 3.
   • Your generator’s Starting Wattage should be high enough to handle the highest single appliance’s surge (from step 4) while the other appliances you want running are already running. A simpler rule of thumb is the generator’s surge rating needs to meet or exceed the highest individual appliance surge added to the total running wattage of everything else you plan to have on.

Example: You want to run lights (100W), fridge (400W running/800W starting), and microwave (1200W running/1800W starting).

• Total Running Watts: 100 + 400 + 1200 = 1700 Watts.
• Highest Starting Watts (while others are running): The microwave surge (1800W) is higher than the fridge surge (800W). When the microwave starts, the lights (100W) and fridge (400W) are likely running. So the required surge capacity is roughly 1800W (microwave surge) + 100W (lights running) + 400W (fridge running) = 2300 Watts momentarily.
• Required Generator: Needs at least 1700 running watts and a surge capacity of around 2300 watts or more. A 2000-watt inverter generator might suffice for running these individually but likely not the microwave while other things are running unless it has a good surge rating (like 2200-2400 surge watts). If you want to run an AC (say, 2000W running, 3500W starting) plus other items, you’d need a much larger generator, perhaps 3000-4000 running watts with a higher surge.

Recommendation: It’s always better to slightly overestimate your needs than to underestimate. Consider appliances you might add in the future.

Key Features to Consider

Once you have an idea of the type and wattage you need, look at these features:

• Noise Level (dB): Measured in decibels (dB), lower numbers are quieter. This is crucial for boondocking, as excessive noise disturbs neighbors and wildlife. Inverter generators are significantly quieter than conventional ones. Look for generators rated 50-60 dB at 25% load (quiet conversation range). Many campgrounds have noise restrictions.
• Fuel Type:

  • Gasoline: Most common, easy to find. Requires careful storage due to flammability and shorter shelf life.
  • Propane (LPG): Cleaner burning, easier to store long-term (doesn’t degrade like gas), readily available in RV tanks. Produces slightly less power than gasoline.
  • Diesel: Fuel efficient, often used with diesel-pusher RVs using the same fuel source. More expensive generators.
  • Dual Fuel: Can run on either gasoline or propane, offering flexibility.

• Size and Weight: Especially important for portable generators. Can you lift and move it easily? Where will you store it during travel and when not in use?
• Starting Method: Pull-cord (standard, can be difficult), Electric start (push button, requires a battery), Remote start (most convenient, often on higher-end models).
• Run Time: How long will the generator run on a full tank at a certain load (e.g., 25% or 50%)? Longer run time means less frequent refueling.
• Maintenance: Consider ease of access for oil changes, air filter cleaning, and spark plug replacement.
• Safety Features: Low oil shutoff (prevents engine damage), Overload protection (prevents damage to appliances), Spark arrestor (required for use in many parks and forests).
• Parallel Capability: Some inverter generators can be linked together with a special cable to double the power output. This offers flexibility – use one small generator for light loads or two for high-demand situations like running AC.

Budget and Cost

RV generators vary widely in price:

• Small Portable Conventional: $400 – $800
• Small/Medium Portable Inverter: $800 – $2000+
• Large Portable Inverter: $2000 – $4000+
• Built-in (Installed): $3000 – $6000+ (plus installation costs)

Price is influenced by wattage, type (inverter costs more), brand reputation, features (electric start, remote start, fuel type), and noise level.

Where to Buy

• RV Dealerships: Convenient if buying an RV, but prices may be higher.
• Outdoor Retailers (e.g., Cabela’s, Bass Pro Shops): Good for portable units, often have knowledgeable staff.
• Home Improvement Stores (e.g., Home Depot, Lowe’s): Offer a range of portable generators, sometimes limited RV-specific features.
• Online Retailers (e.g., Amazon, manufacturer websites): Widest selection and competitive pricing, but can’t see/hear the unit before buying.

Putting It All Together

Buying an RV generator is a process:

1. Assess Your Power Needs: What appliances do you really need to run simultaneously when off-grid? Calculate running and surge watts.
2. Choose the Type: Portable vs. Built-in? Conventional vs. Inverter? For most, a portable inverter generator offers the best balance of cost, performance, and features for typical boondocking.
3. Select Features: Prioritize noise level, fuel type, weight (if portable), and starting method based on your usage.
4. Set Your Budget: Find models that meet your needs and features within your price range.
5. Read Reviews: Check reviews from other RVers on specific models.

FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

• Q: Are RV generators loud?
  A: Conventional generators can be very loud. Inverter generators are significantly quieter, often comparable to a loud conversation (50-60 dB). Noise levels are measured at a specific distance (usually 7 meters) and load (usually 25%). Always check the decibel rating.
• Q: Can I run my RV air conditioner with any generator?
  A: No. Air conditioners are one of the most power-hungry appliances and require a generator with sufficient running and surge watts. A typical 13,500 BTU AC needs at least a 2500-3000 running watt generator with a surge capacity around 3500-4000+ watts.
• Q: What’s the difference between running watts and starting watts?
  A: Running watts is the continuous power needed. Starting watts is the temporary surge required to start motor-driven appliances. The starting watts are always higher than running watts.
• Q: How much maintenance do RV generators need?
  A: They require regular maintenance similar to any engine: oil changes, air filter cleaning/replacement, spark plug checks, and fuel system checks. Always follow the manufacturer’s recommended schedule, often based on hours of operation.
• Q: Is it okay to use a non-inverter generator for electronics?
  A: It’s risky. Conventional generators produce less stable power that can potentially damage sensitive electronics like laptops, smart TVs, and charging devices. Inverter generators produce clean, stable power (pure sine wave) that is safe for all electronics.
• Q: How long will a generator run on a tank of fuel?
  A: This varies greatly depending on the generator’s fuel tank size, the load (how much power you’re drawing), and the engine’s efficiency. Manufacturer specs usually list run time at 25% and 50% load.

Conclusion

Purchasing an RV generator is an investment in your freedom and comfort on the road. By carefully assessing your power needs, understanding the different types and features available, and setting a realistic budget, you can choose a generator that perfectly complements your RV lifestyle. Don’t rush the decision; do your homework, calculate your wattage needs accurately, and prioritize factors like noise level and fuel type based on how and where you plan to use it. With the right generator by your side, you can confidently explore those remote destinations, knowing you have reliable power whenever you need it. Happy travels!