The Essential Guide to RV Generators for Camping

The Essential Guide to RV Generators for Camping

The open road calls, and for many RV enthusiasts, that call includes venturing beyond the paved campgrounds and into the wild embrace of nature. This is where boondocking – camping without external hookups – offers unparalleled freedom. However, to truly enjoy the comforts of your RV in these off-grid locations, a reliable source of power is essential. Enter the RV generator, a key piece of equipment that transforms a simple parking spot into a functional home-on-wheels.

But generators aren’t just for boondocking. They can be lifesavers during campground power outages, allow you to run essential appliances like air conditioning or a microwave during travel stops, or provide power in emergency situations. Choosing and using the right generator, however, involves understanding a few key concepts. This guide will walk you through the essentials of RV generators for camping.

Why You Need a Generator: Powering Your Freedom

Think about what makes your RV comfortable: the refrigerator keeping your food cold, the lights after dark, charging your phone, perhaps running a fan or even air conditioning on a hot day. Without a generator, your power is limited to your battery bank, which primarily handles 12V systems (lights, water pump, some fans). To run standard household 120V appliances like microwaves, coffee makers, toasters, TVs, hair dryers, or crucially, an air conditioner, you need a generator (or significant solar/inverter setup, but generators are often the primary solution for high-demand items).

For boondocking or dry camping, a generator provides the muscle to keep your batteries topped up and run those power-hungry appliances when needed. At campgrounds with limited amenities or unreliable power, a generator acts as a backup, ensuring your trip isn’t interrupted by a lack of electricity.

Types of RV Generators

RV generators broadly fall into two categories:

1. Built-in (Onboard) Generators: These are permanently installed in your RV, often powered by the same fuel source as the vehicle (gasoline or diesel) or by propane from the RV’s tanks.

   • Pros: Conveniently integrated, often quieter than portable conventional generators, electric start from inside the RV, designed specifically for RV use.
   • Cons: Expensive to purchase and install, requires professional maintenance, adds significant weight to the RV, cannot be moved away from the RV for noise reduction. Onan is the most common brand in this category.

2. Portable Generators: These are separate units you carry with you. They offer flexibility and are generally less expensive than built-in units. Portable generators themselves come in two main types:

   • Conventional Generators: These are the traditional, open-frame generators often associated with construction sites.

     • Pros: Relatively inexpensive, robust.
     • Cons: Very loud, heavy, produce "dirty" power (can be harmful to sensitive electronics), run at a constant speed regardless of load (less fuel-efficient). Generally not recommended for RV camping due to noise and power quality.

   • Inverter Generators: These are the modern standard for RV portable power. They use advanced electronics to produce clean, stable power and vary their engine speed based on the load.

     • Pros: Much quieter than conventional generators, produce "clean" sine wave power (safe for electronics), fuel-efficient (engine idles down when less power is needed), often lighter and more compact.
     • Cons: More expensive than conventional generators.

Key Features and Specifications

When choosing a generator, several specifications matter:

• Wattage (Running vs. Starting): This is the most critical factor.

  • Running Watts: The continuous power the generator can provide to keep appliances running.
  • Starting Watts (Surge Watts): The extra burst of power needed for a few seconds to start appliances with electric motors (like air conditioners, refrigerators, microwaves). The starting wattage required is often 2-3 times the running wattage of the appliance. Your generator must meet the running wattage needs of all appliances you plan to run simultaneously, plus the highest starting wattage required by one appliance.

• Fuel Type:

  • Gasoline: Most common for portables, widely available.
  • Propane: Cleaner burning, easy to tap into the RV’s supply (if plumbed), stores well. Less energy-dense than gasoline, so slightly lower power output for the same engine size.
  • Diesel: Typically only for built-in generators on diesel RVs.
  • Dual Fuel: Can run on either gasoline or propane, offering flexibility.

• Noise Level (Decibels – dB): Generators are measured in decibels. Lower numbers are quieter. Inverter generators are significantly quieter (often 50-60 dB at a distance) than conventional ones (70-80 dB or more). Many campgrounds have noise restrictions, often requiring generators to be below 60 dB or only run during specific hours.
• Weight and Portability: Portable generators range from under 50 lbs to over 100 lbs. Consider if you need wheels or sturdy handles for moving it.
• Features: Look for features like electric start, remote start, fuel gauge, hour meter (for maintenance tracking), multiple outlets, and parallel capability (allowing you to link two smaller inverter generators together for more power).

Choosing the Right Size: Doing the Math

Undersizing your generator is a common mistake. To avoid frustration, calculate your needs:

1. List all the 120V appliances you might want to run at the same time.
2. Find the running watts for each appliance. This is usually on a label or in the manual. Common estimates: Microwave (800-1500W), Coffee Maker (600-1000W), Hair Dryer (1000-1800W), AC Unit (1500-3500W running, much higher starting), TV (50-200W), Battery Charger (500-1000W).
3. Find the starting watts for appliances with motors (AC, microwave, fridge if 120V compressor). Again, check labels or manuals. If not listed, estimate 2-3x the running watts.
4. Sum the running watts of all appliances you might run simultaneously.
5. Identify the single appliance with the highest starting wattage.
6. Add the total running watts from step 4 to the highest starting wattage from step 5. This gives you a good estimate of the minimum surge watts needed. The required running watts will be the total from step 4.

Example: You want to run your 1500W AC (needs ~3000W starting), the microwave (1000W running/1800W starting), and charge batteries (800W running) simultaneously.

• Simultaneous Running Watts: 1500W (AC) + 1000W (Microwave) + 800W (Charger) = 3300W
• Highest Starting Wattage: AC at ~3000W (Microwave is 1800W).
• Estimated Generator Size: Needs at least 3300 running watts and ~3000 surge watts above the running load (so roughly 3300 + 3000 = 6300 surge watts needed). Correction: The surge is additive to the running only for the moment of starting. So, you need a generator that can continuously supply 3300W and provide a brief surge capacity up to the highest single starting load on top of the other running loads. A more accurate calculation: Sum running watts of all other items + the starting watts of the largest single item. If running microwave (1000W/1800W start) and charger (800W) while starting AC (1500W/3000W start): (1000W + 800W) + 3000W = 4800W surge needed. And 3300W running needed. This suggests a generator in the 3500-4500 running watt range (which often have surge capacities in the 4000-5000+ range) is likely needed just for this scenario. This shows why AC is the biggest draw and requires a substantial generator. Many smaller inverter generators (2000-2500W) are sufficient for everything except AC, or can run a single, smaller AC unit with a "soft start" capacitor installed on the AC.

When in doubt, err slightly on the side of more power.

Operation, Maintenance, and Safety

Owning a generator comes with responsibilities:

• Read the Manual: Every generator is different. Understand its specific starting procedure, maintenance schedule, and safety warnings.
• Fueling: Always refuel when the generator is OFF and cool. Use fresh fuel and store it in approved containers away from ignition sources.
• Maintenance: Generators need regular oil changes (often after the first 20-30 hours, then every 50-100 hours), air filter cleaning/replacement, and spark plug checks. Running the generator periodically (e.g., 30-60 minutes every month) with a light load helps keep the carburetor from getting clogged, especially with gasoline.
• Safety First!

  • CARBON MONOXIDE (CO): This is odorless, colorless, and deadly. Never run a generator inside an RV, enclosed space, or even too close. Position the generator outdoors, far away from your RV (at least 15-20 feet), tents, and neighboring campsites. Ensure the exhaust is directed away from people and structures, especially windows and vents. Crucially, install and maintain a working carbon monoxide detector inside your RV. Test it regularly.
  • Ventilation: Ensure proper airflow around the generator to prevent overheating.
  • Grounding: Some generators require grounding. Check your manual and local regulations.
  • Noise Etiquette: Be mindful of noise. Use an inverter generator if possible. Respect campground quiet hours (often 8 PM to 8 AM). Position the generator to minimize noise disturbance to neighbors.
  • Weather: Protect the generator from rain and snow during operation (use a generator tent or cover designed for use while running).
  • Storage: Follow storage instructions, which often involve stabilizing fuel or running the carburetor dry.

Conclusion

An RV generator can be a powerful tool, unlocking access to remote camping locations and providing comfort and convenience wherever you roam. Understanding the different types, calculating your power needs accurately, and committing to safe operation and regular maintenance are key to making the most of this valuable piece of equipment. Choose wisely based on your RV’s power demands, your camping style, and noise considerations, and you’ll ensure your adventures are powered and comfortable.

FAQs about RV Generators for Camping

• Q: How loud is too loud?

  • A: Most campgrounds have rules, often requiring generators to be below 60 dB measured at a certain distance (e.g., 50 feet). Inverter generators are best for minimizing noise. Always check campground regulations and be considerate of neighbors.

• Q: Can a 2000-watt generator run my RV’s air conditioner?

  • A: Probably not a standard RV AC unit without modification. RV ACs typically require 1500-3500 running watts and much higher starting watts (3000-5000+). Some smaller ACs might start on a 2200W inverter generator, especially if equipped with a "soft start" capacitor, but it’s pushing the limit. For reliable AC power, you generally need a 3000W generator or larger.

• Q: How long will a generator run on a tank of fuel?

  • A: This varies greatly depending on the generator model, tank size, and the load you’re putting on it. An inverter generator running at a low load might run for 8-10+ hours, while running at maximum capacity might deplete the tank in 3-4 hours.

• Q: Gasoline vs. Propane generators for portables?

  • A: Gasoline is more energy-dense, potentially offering slightly more power from a smaller engine and is widely available. Propane is cleaner burning (less carbon buildup), stores indefinitely without degradation (unlike gasoline), and can often connect to your RV’s existing propane tanks. However, propane is less energy-dense, meaning you’ll consume more of it for the same power output. Dual-fuel offers the best of both worlds.

• Q: Do I need an inverter generator?

  • A: For RV camping, an inverter generator is highly recommended. They are significantly quieter and produce "clean" power (sine wave) which is safe for sensitive electronics like laptops, TVs, and RV converters/chargers. Conventional generators are often too loud for campgrounds and can potentially damage electronics.

• Q: How often should I run my generator if I’m not using it?

  • A: If it’s a gasoline generator, it’s highly recommended to run it for 30-60 minutes under a moderate load at least once a month. This helps circulate oil, keep seals lubricated, and prevents fuel from gumming up the carburetor, a common issue with gasoline generators that sit for extended periods.