The Ultimate Guide to Choosing an RV Generator

The Ultimate Guide to Choosing an RV Generator

The open road, scenic vistas, starry nights – these are the hallmarks of the RV lifestyle. But even the most rustic adventurer occasionally needs power: to run the microwave for a quick meal, charge electronics, keep food cold in the fridge, or, crucially in hot climates, run the air conditioner. When you’re off-grid, away from campground hookups, your lifeline to these modern conveniences is often an RV generator.

Choosing the right generator isn’t a one-size-fits-all decision. It depends on your RV size, power needs, camping style, budget, and noise tolerance. This guide will break down everything you need to know to make an informed decision and ensure your off-grid adventures are powered comfortably.

Why Do You Need an RV Generator?

While some RVers stick exclusively to campgrounds with full hookups, many yearn for the freedom of boondocking – camping in undeveloped areas without utilities. Generators provide power for:

• Appliances: Refrigerators, microwaves, coffee makers, toasters, TVs, hair dryers.
• Climate Control: Air conditioners and sometimes heaters (though propane is often used for heating).
• Electronics: Charging phones, laptops, cameras, and running medical equipment.
• Lights: Supplementing or providing power for your RV’s lighting system.
• Battery Charging: Recharging your RV’s house batteries, especially important on cloudy days if you rely on solar.

Essentially, a generator allows you to bring essential home comforts with you, no matter how remote your destination.

Key Factors to Consider When Choosing an RV Generator

Selecting the perfect generator involves balancing several important factors. Let’s dive into the most critical ones:

1. Power Needs (Wattage)

This is arguably the most important factor. You need a generator that can handle the combined wattage of the appliances you plan to run simultaneously. Generators have two wattage ratings:

• Running Watts (Continuous Watts): The power the generator can sustain continuously.
• Starting Watts (Surge Watts): The extra burst of power needed for a few seconds to start appliances with motors, like air conditioners, refrigerators, and microwaves. This surge can be significantly higher than the running wattage.

How to Calculate Your Needs:

1. List all the appliances you might want to run at the same time (e.g., A/C, microwave, fridge, TV).
2. Find the running watts for each appliance (usually on a sticker on the appliance itself or in the owner’s manual).
3. Find the starting watts for any appliances with motors. The highest starting wattage of any single motor-driven appliance you might start while others are running is the key.
4. Add up the running watts of all appliances you might run simultaneously.
5. Add the highest starting wattage (from step 3) to the total running watts (from step 4). This gives you a good estimate of the minimum starting watts your generator needs. Your running watts requirement will be the total from step 4.

Example:

• RV A/C: 1500 Running Watts / 3000 Starting Watts
• Microwave: 1000 Running Watts / 1500 Starting Watts (when starting a cooking cycle)
• Refrigerator: 200 Running Watts / 800 Starting Watts
• TV: 100 Running Watts
• Lights: 50 Running Watts

If you want to run the A/C, fridge, TV, and lights simultaneously, and potentially start the microwave while the A/C is running:

• Total Running Watts: 1500 (A/C) + 200 (Fridge) + 100 (TV) + 50 (Lights) = 1850 Running Watts
• Highest Starting Wattage needed while others are running: A/C (3000W surge needed to start) vs Microwave (1500W surge needed to start). The A/C requires the bigger surge.
• Minimum Generator Running Watts: 1850W
• Minimum Generator Starting Watts: 1850 (current running load) + (3000 – 1500) (additional surge needed for the A/C over its running load) = 1850 + 1500 = 3350 Starting Watts needed if the A/C starts while everything else is running. A simpler way is to take the total running watts plus the largest individual starting wattage: 1850 + 3000 = 4850. Correction: The simplest way is to take the total running watts plus the additional surge needed by the largest surge appliance. Total Running = 1850. Largest Surge Appliance (A/C) needs 3000W to start, but only runs at 1500W. So the additional surge needed is 3000 – 1500 = 1500W. Total needed = 1850 + 1500 = 3350 Starting Watts.

Most manufacturers simplify this: You need a generator with a running wattage of at least 1850W and a starting wattage of at least the peak total required if the highest-surge item starts, which is 1850W (the load) + 3000W (A/C surge) = 4850W peak. Look for a generator rated >1850 Running Watts and >4850 Starting Watts.

A more common scenario: Just running the A/C. You need at least 1500 Running Watts and 3000 Starting Watts. A 3000-watt generator (often rated around 2800-3000 running / 3300-3500 starting) is often sufficient for running one A/C and a few other small items. For running multiple large appliances, especially multiple A/Cs, you’ll need 4000+ watts, potentially significantly more. Always size up if in doubt.

2. Generator Type: Conventional vs. Inverter

This is a crucial distinction impacting noise, power quality, and cost.

• Conventional Generators (Open Frame):

  • Pros: Generally less expensive, often higher power output for the price.
  • Cons: Very loud (65-80+ dB), less fuel-efficient, produce "dirty" power (voltage fluctuations) that can be harmful to sensitive electronics. Heavy and bulky.

• Inverter Generators:

  • Pros: Much quieter (50-65 dB), more fuel-efficient (throttle adjusts engine speed to load), produce "clean" sine wave power safe for electronics, often lighter and more portable. Can often be run in parallel to double the power.
  • Cons: More expensive than conventional generators of similar wattage.

For RVing, especially in shared camping areas, inverter generators are highly recommended due to their lower noise and better power quality.

3. Fuel Type

RV generators run on various fuels:

• Gasoline: Most common and widely available. Can be stored in external tanks for longer run times. Flammable, requires careful storage, and can gum up carburetors if not used regularly or stabilized.
• Propane: Cleaner-burning than gasoline, easier to store long-term (connects to your RV’s tanks), safer to handle. Provides slightly less power output than gasoline for the same engine size and consumes fuel faster.
• Diesel: Most fuel-efficient, matches fuel type for diesel-pusher RVs. Generators are usually large, expensive, and louder than propane/gas inverters. Often built-in.
• Dual Fuel: Can run on either gasoline or propane, offering flexibility. Power output is usually slightly lower on propane.

Choose a fuel type that aligns with your RV (matching fuels simplifies things) and your storage/availability preferences.

4. Noise Level (Decibels – dB)

Generator noise is a major factor, both for your peace and that of your neighbors. Measured in decibels (dB), every 10 dB increase is roughly perceived as a doubling of loudness.

• Quiet conversation: 60 dB
• Lawnmower: 90 dB
• Inverter generators: Typically 50-65 dB
• Conventional generators: Typically 65-80+ dB

Many campgrounds, especially national and state parks, have strict generator hours and sometimes noise limits (often around 60 dB at 50 feet). If you plan to camp in such areas, a quiet inverter generator is essential.

5. Portability vs. Built-in

• Portable: Offers flexibility to place the generator away from the RV (for noise reduction), easier to maintain or replace. Requires lifting and storage space.
• Built-in: Convenient (start with a switch inside the RV), secure, often more powerful (especially diesel). Takes up basement storage space or adds weight to the chassis. Maintenance can be more complex.

Most RVers choose portable generators unless they have a large Class A or B designed with a generator compartment.

6. Cost

Consider the total cost:

• Purchase Price: Inverter generators are more expensive upfront.
• Fuel Cost: Varies by fuel type and efficiency. Inverters are more fuel-efficient.
• Maintenance: Regular oil changes, filter replacements, etc.

7. Features

Look for helpful features:

• Electric Start: Much easier than pull-starting, especially for larger units.
• Remote Start: Start/stop the generator from inside the RV.
• Parallel Capability: Allows connecting two smaller inverter generators to double the power output – great for flexibility.
• Fuel Gauge: Helps monitor run time.
• Hour Meter: Tracks usage for maintenance scheduling.
• Safety Features: Low-oil shutoff, overload protection, spark arrestor.

Putting It All Together

Once you’ve assessed your needs based on the factors above, you can narrow down your options:

• Occasional use, low power (charging, lights): Small inverter generator (1000-2500 watts).
• Running one A/C and other basics: Mid-size inverter generator (2800-4000 watts).
• Running multiple A/Cs or heavy appliances: Large inverter generator (4000+ watts), parallel setup of two mid-size inverters, or a large conventional or built-in unit (if noise isn’t an issue).
• Strict noise limits: Inverter generator is a must.
• Diesel RV: Consider a diesel generator for fuel consistency.
• Long boondocking trips without refueling: Consider propane or dual fuel for easier storage, or extra gas cans/large external tanks.

Safety and Maintenance

Regardless of the generator you choose, always prioritize safety:

• Ventilation: Never run a generator inside an enclosed space, including an RV or garage. Ensure adequate ventilation to prevent deadly carbon monoxide buildup. Place it far from windows, doors, and vents. Consider purchasing a portable carbon monoxide detector for your RV.
• Placement: Place the generator on a level surface, away from flammable materials.
• Grounding: Follow manufacturer instructions for grounding the generator.
• Maintenance: Perform regular maintenance (oil changes, air filter cleaning/replacement, spark plug inspection) as per the owner’s manual. Stale fuel is a common problem; use fuel stabilizer if storing for extended periods.

FAQs About RV Generators

Q: How much power (watts) do I really need?
A: Calculate the running watts of everything you might use simultaneously and add the largest single starting wattage requirement. Don’t guess – overestimate slightly to be safe. A 3000-4000 watt inverter is common for running one RV air conditioner and other basics.

Q: Is an inverter generator worth the extra cost?
A: For most RVers, absolutely. The reduced noise, better fuel efficiency, and clean power for electronics are significant advantages, especially when camping near others or using sensitive devices.

Q: Can I run my RV’s air conditioner with any generator?
A: No. RV air conditioners, especially 13,500 or 15,000 BTU units, require a significant amount of starting wattage (often 2800-4000+ watts for a few seconds). You need a generator specifically sized to handle this surge. Check the A/C’s specifications and compare it to the generator’s starting wattage.

Q: Are generators allowed in all campgrounds?
A: No. Many campgrounds, particularly in national and state parks, have specific "generator hours" (e.g., 8 am to 10 am and 4 pm to 6 pm) to minimize noise disruption. Some prohibit them entirely or have strict noise limits. Always check campground rules in advance.

Q: How loud is too loud?
A: This is subjective and depends on campground rules. Many aim for below 60 dB at 50 feet. Inverter generators typically meet this standard. Conventional generators often do not. Be considerate of your neighbors.

Q: What is parallel capability?
A: Some inverter generators allow you to link two identical units together using a special cable to combine their power output. This gives you the flexibility of having one smaller, lighter generator for low-power needs or combining them for high-power demands like running air conditioning.

Q: How long can a generator run on a tank of fuel?
A: Run time varies greatly depending on the generator’s fuel tank size, fuel efficiency, and the load being placed on it. Inverter generators are generally more fuel-efficient and can run for 6-12+ hours on a tank at a quarter load. Conventional generators often run shorter times and less efficiently.

Conclusion

Choosing the right RV generator is a crucial step towards unlocking the full potential of your RV adventures, particularly when venturing off the beaten path. By carefully evaluating your power needs, understanding the differences between generator types, considering fuel options and noise levels, and factoring in portability and cost, you can select a unit that perfectly complements your RV lifestyle.

Armed with this guide, you’re now equipped to make an informed decision. Invest wisely in a generator that provides reliable power, operates within acceptable noise limits, and ensures your comfort and convenience wherever the road takes you. Happy trails and enjoy the power of freedom!